Turner opened his first Ted's in Columbus,
Ohio, in 2002 and now has 35 locations in 13 states.
The Alexandria branch, which opened in late January,
is a short stroll from both the AMC Hoffman Center 22-theater
movie complex and the Eisenhower Avenue Metro stop.
And the menu features bison and beef, naturally, because
Turner, the largest individual land owner in the United
States, has 15 sprawling ranches in seven states, including
the whopping 580,000-acre Vermejo Park Ranch in northern
New Mexico. Two new Ted's are scheduled to open in Arlington
by the end of the year.
There's a relaxed atmosphere in the spacious
dining room, where dark woodwork adds the rustic flavor
of the Arts and Crafts movement. Like many steakhouses,
this one has lots of comfortable, high-backed booths
that create a bit of privacy for a family with small
children or a couple on a movie/meal date. Tables are
covered with brown paper and individually stocked with
more condiments than the average kitchen pantry.
The Caesar salad is near perfect, the
crisp romaine leaves tossed with just the right amount
of anchovy-laced dressing and shavings of Parmesan cheese.
Ted's kitchen produces a lovely, roasted fillet of king
salmon, with a crisp edge and a nice, woody/smoky flavor.
And I wouldn't hesitate to order again the roasted "beer
can" chicken, which has a remarkable and distinct
free-range flavor.
There's a touch of sweetness to the bison
meat. The Delmonico cut is beautifully seared, with
just enough fat along the edge to keep the meat succulent.
Any home on the range would be proud to serve the hearty
bison meatloaf or the tender bison pot roast I tried;
comfort food doesn't get much better than this.