TED'S MONTANA GRILL

Hartford Courant

Ted's commitment to freshness is its strongest quality. For a high-volume chain restaurant, their ethics are shocking - no freezer, no microwave, steaks carved up right in the kitchen. Ted's cuts no corners, yet somehow has your food ready in an instant.

The commitment to freshness is a good thing. At the Montana Grill, bison is boldly presented as a mainstream meat. Bison burgers, bison steaks, bison chili, pot roast and meatloaf ... patrons were eating it up with gusto, demonstrating an intrepid palate Connecticut residents are rumored to lack.

Of course, it's only daring to down that first mouthful. After that, you'll be hooked. Bison is not gamy or gristly - it's like a lean, pleasant riff on beef that actually has fewer calories and less cholesterol. The bison Kansas City Strip was very nice, lightly seared and brushed moderately with lemon butter. The bison pot roast was even better, with the high quality of the meat bringing this budget recipe to a surprising level of elegance.

There are more than a dozen combinations, with various sprinklings of blue cheese, cheddar, grilled onions, hot peppers and so much more. You're sure to find a burger that suits your tastes and each is available as beef or bison. If you're taking a night off from red meat, there's an equally long list of chicken sandwiches served on toasted sourdough rolls.

Ted's seems to be drawing crowds with its homey recipes and Arts and Crafts decor, featuring cavernous spaces with pressed tin ceilings and a forest of mahogany paneling.